Two Italians, One Citroen

So far nothing has stood up to the Osteria in Turbone and it is unlikely that any will. But it is hard not to make the comparison.

Anotonio's in Islington places tables in the courtyard where Citroen cars stand by day waiting to be repaired (and some continue to share space with diners in the evening) so it gets full marks for atmosphere. Fresh ingredients and basic pasta make it worthy or a revisit. It is the only place that I have seen cinghale, or wild boar on the menu. But if my review lacks the usual zest, it's because Antonio's is, at the end of the day, ho-hum and not inexpensive at £20-25/head.

Latium, in the West End, probably deserves a second choice because it seems to have lots of potential despite the fact that 3 of 4 of us appeared to order the wrong thing (what are the odds). Gnocchi and veal tongue doused in pesto that killed all taste; the bisteca, though, hinted at the flavours that the kitchen is probably able to put out. The £28 two course menu seems to be good value for a part of town inundated with price insensitive theatre goers. The service and the wine menu is inescapably Italian, if you get my drift.

My Old Place

Best to ask a Mandarin speaker to help you make a reservation here: English is definitely the second language and reservations are recommended.

The 'street' name of My Old Place is Lao Di Fang which when translated means "eat lots of Northern Chinese food for cheap but don't tell the foreigners about this place". In fact, I would not have posted this 'find' if it weren't for a fact that only Nellie reads this blog.

The green beans and chili chicken with numbing Sichuan spice are must haves; the ribs are so-so.

88 Middlesex Street, London E1

+44 207 247 2200

LON: Afghan Kitchen

Right next to the same-old, same-old constituents of 'Supper Street' is the tiny 'A.K.' (I liked it so much that we're already on to nicknames).

£9/head gets you a long wait for a communal table but also friendly service and large portions of what seems home cooked Afghan fare. Now I've never been to Afghanistan, and don't foresee such a trip happening, but surely this is how it must be back in the Motherland! Yogurt drenched roasted pumpkin with chilly oil, chicken in yogurt sauce (even for someone who despises chicken), and fresh baked bread. The bread! Go here just for the bread. One serving is enough for two medium sized Europeans or one American child.

Go early or book. Ask for a seat at the table downstairs so that you can catch a glimpse of Islington's Intellectuals walking by. 35 Islington Green, London N1