Two Italians, One Citroen

So far nothing has stood up to the Osteria in Turbone and it is unlikely that any will. But it is hard not to make the comparison.

Anotonio's in Islington places tables in the courtyard where Citroen cars stand by day waiting to be repaired (and some continue to share space with diners in the evening) so it gets full marks for atmosphere. Fresh ingredients and basic pasta make it worthy or a revisit. It is the only place that I have seen cinghale, or wild boar on the menu. But if my review lacks the usual zest, it's because Antonio's is, at the end of the day, ho-hum and not inexpensive at £20-25/head.

Latium, in the West End, probably deserves a second choice because it seems to have lots of potential despite the fact that 3 of 4 of us appeared to order the wrong thing (what are the odds). Gnocchi and veal tongue doused in pesto that killed all taste; the bisteca, though, hinted at the flavours that the kitchen is probably able to put out. The £28 two course menu seems to be good value for a part of town inundated with price insensitive theatre goers. The service and the wine menu is inescapably Italian, if you get my drift.